THESARA
INSIDE DENIM
GENDERLESS JEANS
Going waterless
Cleaner dyeing processes initially developed for knitwear, where the use of indigo can be problematical, could be viable solutions for woven denim fabrics as well. Colourizd, with offices in Hong Kong and North Carolina, has devised what it calls a
"direct colour application method' for cellulosic fibres. The new twist of this technology is that it generates a washed down effect at yarn stage, and thus potentially eliminates the need for washing and fading down the line. Company founders Antony Lau, Jennifer and Alan Thompson were looking to give cotton fabrics a linen-like look when they began working on this process 12 years ago, and which they commercialise under the name GiDélavé. Now they say that technical progress makes it possible to emulate denim.
Das in Indien ansässige Unternehmen Thesara Industrial Technology arbeitet derzeit an einem weiteren nahezu wasserlosen Färbeverfahren namens Wisk, bei dem Indigo in einer „reduzierten Atmosphäre“ auf einen Stoff und nicht auf ein Garn aufgetragen wird. „Es handelt sich um eine Oberflächenfärbung.“
V. Prabhakaran Chetti gegenüber Inside Denim fügt hinzu: „Es ist sicher und gibt keine schädlichen Gase ab.“
By eliminating yarn dyeing, Mr Chetti says no sizing is needed which, among other benefits of this solution, leads to decreased water and chemicals usage, shorter processing times, and thus overall energy savings and lower production costs. Initially developed for knits, the technique is said to also apply to woven fabrics. As it is a surface dyeing process (+ surface), it colours a single side of the fabric at a time, with up to 80% penetration. "But it is possible to achieve the authentic white core of traditional indigo yarn-dyed fabrics," he says.
Thesara now has a working model of the equipment and is close to finalising a commercial version. "We are looking to partner with a machine manufacturing company to make it available globally for the denim community," he says.
As pressure mounts to save precious water and energy supplies, indigo dyeing is, as can be seen, the focus of great experimentation and innovation. They are a sign of the efforts suppliers and mills are making to ensure safer working conditions, make the best use of resources, and accelerate the shift towards more sustainable manufacturing. They do, however, require new thinking in the design and product development processes. This is the missing link that will fundamentally make the most difference and would lead to real change.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
Neue Indigo-Färbetechnologie
Das spart Wasser und Energie
Thesara ist spezialisiert auf die Nutzung
Komponenten reduziert den Wasser- und Energieverbrauch erheblich
mechanische und technologische Produkte zur Herstellung der ultimativen nachhaltigen Funktionsbeschichtung und Indigo
Leistung & Umfang
Dyeing on Fabric' Maschine für umweltfreundliche
1. Zuschuss vom Ministerium für Wissenschaft und Industrie
bewusste Menschen, sagt Herr Prabhakaran Chetti, Forschungsbeauftragter (DSIR) der indischen Regierung.
Geschäftsführer von Thesara Industrial Technology
2. Nominiert für den Start-up India 500 Award 2022
Private GmbH.
3. Innovative Product on Denim Award gewonnen von
Exklusives Gespräch mit Samuel Joseph, Berater der Indian Textile Fair 2021.
The prospect will be launching the world's first ever industrial dyeing machine that
uses reducing
atmosphere (REDOX) to indigo dye fabrics with Wisik technology. The reducing atmosphere used in this process is used for the first time in industry and is safe and does notemit any harmful gases.
A promising technology that helps mills and
conventional dye houses make dramatic savings without the need of extensive investment in new plants.
The innovation uses technology that assists dyes getting absorbed by textile fibers more rapidly, using less water and less chemicals during dyeing with zero
effluent generation.
On top of that, the technology uses less chemicals and about half the energy of
conventional dyeing
techniques.
The benefits are huge:
* There is no water consumption, no use of chemicals.
* The investment costs are low, the machine produced
This unique set of features is also a very clean process
lower operational costs and faster processing than traditional dyeing.
that makes sure high quality results at much lower costs along with improved environmental acceptability
Solution
wisik technology- functional coating and indigo byeing on fabric (Patented)
Highly sustainable
Zero effluent generation
„Reduced health hazards with zero discharge rate , Wastewater treatment and potential energy savings
„Environmentally friendly and economical
„Greater colour consistency and performance over
ime
•Highly efficient and easy to handle
This clean technology will speak for itself and it is time to make a difference. We believe in LESS! Is great with respect to Less water, Less Energy, Less Effluent, Less Chemical as we commit to ZDHC (The Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals). This preservation method will make a path for the future generations and shower us with three folded benefits: Planet. People. Profit
Developed within the framework of the innovation support policy developed by Messe Frankfurt France, the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards the best projects in the fashion and textile sector every year. Eight companies have been selected to present their projects at the show. The 2023 jury chose to reward the solution proposed by the Dutch company Aware, which uses a scanner to determine the exact composition of a garment in order to facilitate its recycling. A special prize was awarded to Refact, from Induo, whose solution allows the development on an industrial scale of a process to recycle all types of textiles and produce a new viscose fiber with very low ecological impact.
The 2023 jury was made up of Corinne Bégaud - responsible for HEC's Challenge+ program -, Christian Martin - founder of the Fashion Tech Lab and specialist in augmented reality - and Frédérique Thureau - partner and leader of the TCBL textile network - . Organized by Avantex Paris, the international fair for innovation in advanced and sustainable fashion, this event offers fashion and textile start-ups international exposure to investors, professionals and the media. CDamslab, De Rigueur, HYPUnderwear, NIL Textile, Redivivum, Terra Ferra and Thesara were finalists in the Avantex Fashion Pitch 2023.
Developed as part of Messe Frankfurt France's innovation support policy, the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards the best projects in the field of fashion and textiles every year. Eight companies have been selected to present their project at the fair and two of them have been chosen as winners by the jury.
The first of them is the Dutch company Aware, which allows, using a scanner, to determine the exact composition of a garment to facilitate its recycling. In addition, a special prize has been awarded to Refact by Induo, whose solution allows the development on an industrial scale of a process to recycle all types of textiles and produce a new viscose fiber with very low ecological impact.
The companies CDamslab, De Rigueur, HYPUnderwear, NIL Textile, Redivivum, Terra Ferra and Thesara were finalists in the 2023 edition of the Avantex Fashion Pitch.