THESARA
INSIDE DENIM
GENDERLESS JEANS
Se passer d'eau
Les procédés de teinture plus propres, initialement développés pour les tricots, où l'utilisation de l'indigo peut s'avérer problématique, pourraient également constituer des solutions viables pour les tissus denim tissés. Colourizd, dont les bureaux sont situés à Hong Kong et en Caroline du Nord, a mis au point ce qu'elle appelle une
« méthode d'application directe de la couleur » pour les fibres cellulosiques. La nouveauté de cette technologie réside dans le fait qu'elle génère un effet délavé dès la phase de filage, éliminant ainsi potentiellement le besoin de lavage et de décoloration en aval. Les fondateurs de l'entreprise, Antony Lau, Jennifer et Alan Thompson, cherchaient à donner aux tissus en coton un aspect lin lorsqu'ils ont commencé à travailler sur ce procédé il y a 12 ans, qu'ils commercialisent sous le nom de GiDélavé. Aujourd'hui, ils affirment que les progrès techniques permettent d'imiter le denim.
Thesara industrial Technology, based in India, is finalising another near-waterless dyeing process it calls Wisk that applies indigo in a "reduced atmosphere* on a fabric, not a yarn.*"It is a surface dyeing."
V.Prabhakaran Chetti tells Inside Denim. He adds that "it is safe and does not emit any harmful gases."
By eliminating yarn dyeing, Mr Chetti says no sizing is needed which, among other benefits of this solution, leads to decreased water and chemicals usage, shorter processing times, and thus overall energy savings and lower production costs. Initially developed for knits, the technique is said to also apply to woven fabrics. As it is a surface dyeing process (+ surface), it colours a single side of the fabric at a time, with up to 80% penetration. "But it is possible to achieve the authentic white core of traditional indigo yarn-dyed fabrics," he says.
Thesara now has a working model of the equipment and is close to finalising a commercial version. "We are looking to partner with a machine manufacturing company to make it available globally for the denim community," he says.
As pressure mounts to save precious water and energy supplies, indigo dyeing is, as can be seen, the focus of great experimentation and innovation. They are a sign of the efforts suppliers and mills are making to ensure safer working conditions, make the best use of resources, and accelerate the shift towards more sustainable manufacturing. They do, however, require new thinking in the design and product development processes. This is the missing link that will fundamentally make the most difference and would lead to real change.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
New Indigo Dyeing Technology
That Saves Water & Energy
Thesara specialises in using
components of substantially reduces water and energy consumption
mechanical and technology products to create the ultimate Sustainable Functional Coating and Indigo
Achievement & Scope
Dyeing on Fabric' machine for environmentally
1. Grant from Department of Science and Industrial
conscious people, says Mr. Prabhakaran Chetti, Research (DSIR) Government of INDIA.
Managing Director of Thesara Industrial Technology
2. Nominated for Start-up India 500 Award 2022
Private Limited.
3. Won Innovative Product on Denim Award by
Discussing exclusively with Samuel Joseph, Advisor Indian Textile Fair 2021.
The prospect will be launching the world's first ever industrial dyeing machine that
uses reducing
atmosphere (REDOX) to indigo dye fabrics with Wisik technology. The reducing atmosphere used in this process is used for the first time in industry and is safe and does notemit any harmful gases.
A promising technology that helps mills and
conventional dye houses make dramatic savings without the need of extensive investment in new plants.
The innovation uses technology that assists dyes getting absorbed by textile fibers more rapidly, using less water and less chemicals during dyeing with zero
effluent generation.
On top of that, the technology uses less chemicals and about half the energy of
conventional dyeing
techniques.
The benefits are huge:
* There is no water consumption, no use of chemicals.
* The investment costs are low, the machine produced
This unique set of features is also a very clean process
lower operational costs and faster processing than traditional dyeing.
that makes sure high quality results at much lower costs along with improved environmental acceptability
Solution
wisik technology- functional coating and indigo byeing on fabric (Patented)
Highly sustainable
Zero effluent generation
„Reduced health hazards with zero discharge rate , Wastewater treatment and potential energy savings
„Environmentally friendly and economical
„Greater colour consistency and performance over
ime
•Highly efficient and easy to handle
This clean technology will speak for itself and it is time to make a difference. We believe in LESS! Is great with respect to Less water, Less Energy, Less Effluent, Less Chemical as we commit to ZDHC (The Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals). This preservation method will make a path for the future generations and shower us with three folded benefits: Planet. People. Profit
Developed within the framework of the innovation support policy developed by Messe Frankfurt France, the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards the best projects in the fashion and textile sector every year. Eight companies have been selected to present their projects at the show. The 2023 jury chose to reward the solution proposed by the Dutch company Aware, which uses a scanner to determine the exact composition of a garment in order to facilitate its recycling. A special prize was awarded to Refact, from Induo, whose solution allows the development on an industrial scale of a process to recycle all types of textiles and produce a new viscose fiber with very low ecological impact.
The 2023 jury was made up of Corinne Bégaud - responsible for HEC's Challenge+ program -, Christian Martin - founder of the Fashion Tech Lab and specialist in augmented reality - and Frédérique Thureau - partner and leader of the TCBL textile network - . Organized by Avantex Paris, the international fair for innovation in advanced and sustainable fashion, this event offers fashion and textile start-ups international exposure to investors, professionals and the media. CDamslab, De Rigueur, HYPUnderwear, NIL Textile, Redivivum, Terra Ferra and Thesara were finalists in the Avantex Fashion Pitch 2023.
Developed as part of Messe Frankfurt France's innovation support policy, the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards the best projects in the field of fashion and textiles every year. Eight companies have been selected to present their project at the fair and two of them have been chosen as winners by the jury.
The first of them is the Dutch company Aware, which allows, using a scanner, to determine the exact composition of a garment to facilitate its recycling. In addition, a special prize has been awarded to Refact by Induo, whose solution allows the development on an industrial scale of a process to recycle all types of textiles and produce a new viscose fiber with very low ecological impact.
The companies CDamslab, De Rigueur, HYPUnderwear, NIL Textile, Redivivum, Terra Ferra and Thesara were finalists in the 2023 edition of the Avantex Fashion Pitch.